Lamb-stuffed pastries, hand-pulled noodles, and more
Nevertheless, the cuisine, with its lamb pastries, kebabs, flatbreads, enormous bulging dumplings, pilafs, and handmade noodles have become popular in other parts of China, which is why we see the fabled “big tray chicken” (aka dapan ji) at Spicy Village and other Chinese restaurants. Yet, the menus of these seven establishments are unique for their simple combinations of lamb, chicken, root vegetables, noodles, and Chinese-influenced dishes of cloud ear mushrooms and cabbage laced with chile oil.
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1. Tarim Uyghur Cuisine
Queens, NY 11354
Prominently located in the New World Mall’s basement food court, Tarim offers a very full Uyghur menu despite occupying only a small counter. Triangular, lamb-stuffed samsas, round flatbreads, and other pastries that change by the day are displayed on that counter, while an illuminated sign above offers lamb kebabs, chicken and lamb versions of dapan ji, the hand-pulled noodles known as lagman, and Uyghur pilaf, which is similar to Uzbek plov, though usually with a greater range of vegetables besides carrots and chiles.
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2. Tengri Tagh Uyghur Cuisine
New York, NY 10018
The latest of the city’s Uyghur restaurants is unusually located just north of Macy’s at Herald Square, bringing the cuisine to a whole new audience of office workers and shoppers. Specialties at Tengri Tagh include dapan ji (called “chicken mixed with spices braised in potatoes”), lagman (styled “handmade noodle with Uyghur stir-fried lamb”), and manti dumplings served with soy sauce and fiery chile paste. The name means “Mountains of Heaven,” referring to a range that separates Xinjiang from Central Asia, and the fast-casual service takes place in a sparely decorated dining room.
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3. Nurlan Uyghur Restaurant
Queens, NY 11355
This lively spot on lower Main Street not far from the Queens Botanical Garden is furnished with tiny Uyghur musical instruments and Silk Road market scenes, and features a handful of pastas not usually seen in Xinjiang restaurants here. One is pearl noodles, dressed with minced beef, slivers of carrot, and lots and lots of chile oil that produces a surprisingly mellow burn. The eclectic grilled-kebab list, which runs from eggplant to hot dogs, is another plus.
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4. Jiang's Kitchen
New York, NY 10003
Like its predecessor Jiang Diner, this restaurant imagines itself as the Uyghur equivalent of an American diner, with main courses drawn from the cuisine’s canon of noodles, kebabs, and rice casseroles, plus Chinese-leaning side dishes such as wood-ear mushrooms and hot-and-sour cucumbers. Lamb ribs are a good choice for the former, and tofu and scallion for the latter.
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5. Young Xinjiang BBQ Cart
New York, NY 10002
For the last year or more, this cart specializing in Uyghur-style kebabs cooked over charcoal has been parked over the D train’s Grand Street stop. It usually appears at around 5 p.m. and stays as long as there are customers, sometimes till 1 a.m. The usual snacking order is three or four sticks, which average about $2 each. Chicken and lamb are the most popular, but you can also get squid, beef tendon, gluten, and chicken gizzard — and for those so inclined, you can even purchase a hot dog on a stick, sans bun.
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6. Caravan Uyghur Cuisine
New York, NY 10038
Located near the South Street Seaport, Caravan offers a well-furnished dining room a shade more formal than the other Uyghur restaurants in town. The menu is bigger, too, though all the dishes on it are not always available. You can watch the lagman being stretched and smashed through a window that looks into the kitchen, and other recommended dishes include lamb samsa pastries, lamb rib kebabs, and side dishes of cloud-ear mushrooms and cabbage with chiles.
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